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- Camper Extension Build -

Thanks to @drenalinadventures for the build plans.
I built this camper extension because I got really tired of sleeping diagonally in my short bed camper. It allows me to maintain the wheelbase of a shortbed truck, while giving me the living space of a regular bed length.
It makes camp setup and break down a lot  more easy, as I like to be able to move camp spots at a moments notice. Most importantly, it was cost effective. I have about $70 into this build, thats a far cry from a $1000+ rooftop tent or $6000+ pop-top topper. 
If you are interested in what gear I use go here.

Lumber/Materials

Tools Used

Measure Bed​

Measure the length, width, height, and depth of your tailgate area

 

Start Frame

  • Start with the floor sheet of plywood 
  • Cut your 2x2s to dimension
  • Screw in the flat parts from the bottom using clamps
  • Screw the uprights to the flat pieces and from the bottom through the plywood
  • Screw in the top flat part

Plywood Base

Cut your plywood to the desired dimensions, to serve as the floor for the extension.

Lower Frame

  • Find the distance you’ll need to cut your center supports between the uprights
  • Make your cuts
  • Clamp them in place with the uprights
  • Screw the uprights to the center supports and from the bottom through the plywood

Upper Framing

  • Push the existing framing inside the truck bed
  • Clamp a 2×2 in an angle that would clear the hatch being closed

Mark Angle

  • This is where you’ll cut to get the upright to sit flush on the framing and also clear the hatch closing
  • Cut with a miter saw preferably for better accuracy
  • When you have the cut done, transfer the cut angle to another piece of 2×2 by stacking the pieces and transferring the cut mark

Mount Angled Uprights

  • Hold it putting downward pressure
  • Drill in the screw straight down on the face of the angled 2×2 upright
  • Repeat on other side

Cut Crossbar

  • Measure the distance between the uprights
  • Cut your 2×2 to fit
  • Use a lashing to hold the cross bar in place and screw in
  • I used one screw on each side, that way it could still rotate for easier fitting to the roof later on

T-Square Jig

  • Build a Jig if you dont have a T-square​
  • I used a c clamp to clamp a piece of 2×4 to a 2×2 
  • Make sure the 2×2 is at least as tall as the back highest portion of your roof
  • This will be used as a point to clamp the roof support framing
  • If you have a big enough t-square use that

Align Jig

  • So that it is in line with the front angled upright and furthest back of the structure.
  • This will serve as the marker for the rear, highest point of your roof

Attach Roof Side Crossbar

  • From the front angled upright to the jig
  • Make sure to mark the jig where the roof will be and make sure that the 2×2 is not above that

Mark Crossbar

  • The cut towards the front will be a bit harder
  • I used a jigsaw for this

Cut & Test Fit

  • If it lines up and sits flush enough go ahead and duplicate the markings on another 2×2 by laying it on top of another one

Mount Roof Side Supports

  • Screw in both roof supports
  • Use a single screw for each from the top down into the angles upright
  • Use the thicker area of the 2×2
  • The roof supports will be strong enough to stay without the rear uprights for now

Mount Rear Cross Beam

  • Measure the distance between your roof beams and cut 2×2 to fit
  • Use lashings on the roof beams to clamp onto the rear cross beam
  • Screw into place
  • Make sure to keep this cross beam supported for the next step

Rear Uprights

  • Clamp a 2×2 to the rear lower side support and the roof crossbeam 
  • Mark the angles as shown above in red

Transfer Marks

  •  After you made the cuts transfer them onto another 2×2 using the existing one as a template

Test Fit & Mount

  •  Screw onto upper and lower crossbars.

Attach Lower Side Panels

  •  That have been measured and cut according to the existing frame.

Design Top Panels

  • Using cardboard, trace the shape and cut to fit

Transfer to Plywood

  • Trace it and cut it

Fit & Mount

  • Use clamps for tight fit as this angle may leave gaps

Design top Front Panel​

  • Same process as before
  • Using cardboard, trace the shape and cut to fit
  • Transfer to plywood and cut

Mount Door Support

  • I used a 2×6 mounted to the back of the front side panel framing
  • This provides extra strength and a thicker stud for larger screws to support the door and hinges.
  • I am opting for a larger door with integrated table so wanted extra support.

Build Door Frame

  • Make a square frame with 2×2 in the dimension of the door
  • I used right angle clamps to hold them together to screw into place

Test Fit

Mount Door Panel

  • Clamp it down and screw it in
  • I left some overhang on the bottom to provide a weather seal

Cut Roof and Window Panels

  • According to frame dimesnions

Cut Window Openings

  • I put one in the roof and one in the pushout window
  • I used the dimensions of the plexiglass sheet cut in half and left about a one inch buffer for the plexiglass to screw into

Cut & Pre-drill Plexiglass

  • I used a circular saw to cut the plexiglass and got a clean cut.
  • I left the plastic its wrapped in on to keep a cleaner edge while cutting
  • Then predrilled with a countersink bit

Mount Plexiglass

  • I predrilled the roof/window panels before mounting using the plexiglass as a template to mark the holes
  • I used 1/2″ wood screws spaced about 4″ apart

Mount Plexiglass

  • I predrilled the roof/window panels before mounting using the plexiglass as a template to mark the holes
  • I used 1/2″ wood screws spaced about 4″ apart

Mockup Door Hinges

  • Measure how you want your hinges spaced
  • Trace the hinge pattern

Mount hinges to door

  • I added 2×2 blocking behind the hinges on the door to give more material to screw into

Mount Push-out Window

  • Same way as door but with the hinges on the top crossbar

Mount Roof

Truck Camping

Gardening

DIY

Support

#staycollected